18 Oct Waves occur because:

Waves occur because:

 

A surface is disturbed

 

The moon has a gravitational force

 

The sun has gravitational force

 

There are density differences   

 

Question 2When waves propagate, which of the following is a true statement?

 

Both the energy and the medium is transferred

 

Only the medium is transferred

 

Only the energy is transferred

 

Neither energy nor medium is transferred  

 

Question 3The type of motion that characterizes ocean waves is

 

Shear

 

Tensional

 

Retrograde

 

Oscillatory  

 

Question 4The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs is referred to as:

 

Wave height

 

Wavelength

 

Wave base

 

Period  

 

Question 5The factor that is limiting to wave height is/are:

 

Fetch

 

Duration of wind

 

Velocity of wind    

 

Tides  

 

Question 6A temporary elevation of sea level caused by friction is known as:

 

Rip currents

 

Longshore currents

 

Setup

 

Littoral transport  

 

Question 7The depth of influence for an ocean wave is equal to:

 

One half its wavelength

 

Two times its wavelength

 

One half its wave base

 

Two times its wave base  

 

Question 8The area where waves break at the coast is known as the:

 

Undertow

 

Breakers

 

Surf zone

 

Littoral zone  

 

Question 9Whitecaps are an example of:

 

Swell waves

 

Rip currents

 

Longshore current

 

Sea waves  

 

Question 10Wave energy is concentrated in___________________ and dissipated in______________________.

 

Embayments; headland areas

 

Headland areas; embayments